Biking Through Detroit

By: Ryan Rutledge

Posted: 3/2/10

Detroit, the city renowned for graffiti and ghettos. But that's not the Detroit I know. Mine is full of architecture and modern art set to the soundtrack of buzzing chains and humming tires. Beat The Train: it means a lot of things to all of its members, but to me it's about breaking out and seeing the city at its best.

Every Saturday between April and October we meet, early in the morning while it is still cool and dark and the city is quiet. To the casual outsider, it is nothing more than twenty figures with flashing lights congregating in historic Fort Wayne park on Jefferson Avenue, just outside of lovely Del Ray. For those of you who are unfamiliar with it, Del Ray is the epitome of a ghetto, but while we're here it is something more; it's painstakingly beautiful brick work covered in graffiti and boarded up windows. The architecture in the buildings reflects a time when people took pride in the work they did, but years of turmoil have taken a toll. The buildings stand like monuments to what Detroit used to be. Historic Fort Wayne, where the cycling portion of this journey through the city begins, was a fort built to protect the city on the river. But 21st-century Fort Wayne is soccer fields, playgrounds, and parking lots surrounded by barbed wire, a product of the circumstances. We drink coffee and we socialize on family, work, and politics as we wait for the last few stragglers, some riding into the park, others driving in from anywhere in a 50-mile radius.

Finally we start our trek around 6:15 am. We slowly roll through the park to get warmed up and stretched out, down past the river and through tunnels with the telltale signs of bullet holes, past the soccer fields with parking lots already full of mini-vans. On we go, waving as we pass the armed guard at the entrance: he smiles and knows some members on a first-name basis from checking in every Saturday at 6am when the park opens. We spin through the last of Del Ray; the old abandoned factories and burned out houses fade away as we approach downtown and I-75. Colorful jerseys and bikes buzz through Mexicantown amid quizzical stares from elders who are also up enjoying the morning. The city is quiet, so quiet that for once, it feels peaceful.
Victorian homes restored and maintained on both sides as we bounce along old cobblestone streets are hidden to most, but treasured by those who know them all too well. Still early in the 30 plus miles this adventure will lead our group on, we ride two or three wide when there is no traffic and continue conversations on everyday life, love, and mostly, riding. It unites us as individuals into something more, as does our next waypoint.

The projects line the streets as does broken glass and trash, but then it appears--a house covered entirely in stuffed animals, a sculpture made of doors in the front lawn. Welcome to the Heidelberg Project. The city block now known by this moniker burned to the ground and was restored in 1999 into a modern art project. It has been documented by HBO, newspapers, and the internet. But to truly understand you have to go there because it is a sign of hope. A sign not just for Detroit but for all of us, it has risen from the ashes into something more. Messages of religion, questioning life and war, embracing love; it's all there in the art. The streets are painted and swept clean, the grass is neatly cut and trimmed, and the Port-a-Potties are spotless. Summer fashion shows and festivities are planned and organized. It shows that deep down the spirit of Detroit lives on and is embraced by some individuals who still have the gumption to be more than average.

Next up is Indian Village. Within a matter of miles the projects fade into this neighborhood. The homes are priced in the multiple millions of dollars. Greek and Roman architecture come to mind seeing the columns and arches, decorated with elaborate patterns. The streets roll smooth as glass and all the yards are groomed to perfection. It is dead quiet here; we barely speak as if it would break the mystical effect this place has.

From Indian Village we ride through Elmwood Cemetery, with tombs from the 1800's still standing. It is fenced off and seems devoid of other people at this time of the morning; but on we ride, some racing through the corners and up over the rolling hills. Others ride at pace and just glide along reading names as we pass, and admiring the intricacy of the sculpting that decorates the tombs. From here we push on towards Belle Isle, an island in the river with one bridge for in and out traffic. Cautiously pedaling up the shoulder and sidewalks, we hit the island and it begins: the separation of those who are along for the ride and those who want to see just how fast the rider in front of them really is. Belle Isle is roughly a few miles around and features part of a Formula 1 track, a zoo, a conservatory, and all kinds of people doing all kinds of activities. But for us, it's a race track, miraculously with a head wind all the way around; we jockey for position and drop into pace lines, call out as we pass people, blow past walkers on the path and never look back. At the end we congregate at the zoo, and await those who just carried pace to arrive and get a laugh out of us panting and doubled over. After a quick break for water and snacks we collectively press on.

Detroit river walk is one of the final waypoints on this journey, and by now life has been brought back to Detroit, cars zoom by just barely sharing the road. We stop and visit a lighthouse-yes, there is a lighthouse hidden in Detroit that does still function and is used. On the river walk we just glide along, taking in the sights and people watching--the character of Detroit is finally out and on display on this portion of our journey. The young at heart splash through the fountain as it shoots water out of the concrete, hoping to time it right and not get drenched, not caring if they do. We pass by Joe Louis Arena, Ford Field and Comerica Park as we head back towards the origin of this trip. But we have one last stop that is the motivation of many riders: Los Galanas. If you have never been to Mexicantown it's a must. Real authentic cuisine, not some approximation. We lock the bikes on the outdoor patio, and step in to be greeted as always. They already have tables pushed together for the 20 or so members outfitted in spandex and bright colored cycling jerseys. Huevos Rancheros is a personal favorite--the fresh made salsa and corn chips and tortillas bring about the realization that this is the real deal. It gives our group a chance to gather and reflect on the ride as it draws to a close.

The last two miles are our pedal to Fort Wayne and the city is alive now--it's a breathing, living thing. We ride as a group, no one trying to lead, just laughing and recalling moments from this adventure that stand out and give us all a smile. At last, we reach our end and pack it up. Tired legs and full stomachs a reminder of what we have done today, and off we go each his own way looking forward to the next Saturday morning.

If you are interested in riding with us, please visit www.BeatTheTrain.com, or contact me Ryan Rutledge at rutl2568@kettering.edu.